ABELOUR WITH ROMEO AND JULIETA'S

After a good happy hour set of steak burgers and Ketel One martini’s at Mortons Steakhouse—arguably the best burgers and martini’s in Singapore, I proceeded to continue in my gluttony by charging a fine set of Romeo and Julieta No. 3's and bottle of Abelour 10 years to my expense account! In my frequent travels, there is nothing quite like enjoying a manly evening of steaks, cigars, malt and beautiful people, while chatting with friends about business! It has all the right elements: Something bad for your heart, liver and mouth, while exercising your mind AND eyes. Perfect.

Abelour 10 Years: A spicy and salty Speyside (the bar listed it as an Islay) Malt, not the top of the Abelour range, but for the price a relative bargain. It warms you up quick, leaving a sweet aftertaste. Does not carry the salty Speyside hit that a lot of the Malts from this region carry.

Romeo and Julieta No. 03: Hits with a nice vanilla aftertaste, which grows more poignant as the cigar burns mid-way (must be the heat). I find it a bit harsh for my taste, preferring a nice Cohiba or Davidoff of equivalent size—though many will argue. It has a light draw…ugh.

CHATEUX MARGAUX GRAN CRU 1983

I enjoyed a nice glass of Chateux Margaux 1983, while taking in a gorgeous view of Singapore from the rooftop China Club. It had deep red highlights, with a spiced flavor. It was not too heavy considering its age, and was every bit as good as its reputation. It is said that the flavor comes from the thin stony topsoil over a mix of lime and sand with alcerous soil. Current debate has yet to be concluded on whether the Margaux 1982 or 1983 is the Margaux wine of the century. A real shame considering I have a 1981 Margaux sitting in my bar! Be warned, prices range between $2000 (if you are lucky) to $3500 per bottle, so savor it wisely.

DAVIDOFF 2000

This cigar has an admittedly lighter draw than I am accustomed to, making the first few minutes of the smoke a bit strained. It’s amusing because I make the same comment each and every time I light one up! Once you get a feel for the cigar, it’s a pleasant afternoon smoke, mild and light—with a slightly bitter aftertaste. The wrapper burns evenly and you can spend minutes lining up your cigar ash so it resembles a full cigar (amusing). The Petite Corona is a small cigar, which lasts about 30-40 minutes depending on the smoker. It is your classic non-grand cru series Davidoff: predictable, pleasant, slightly too expensive, nice for a quiet afternoon with a book and good shot of espresso.

798 BETWEEN 11 AND 4

Art is a tricky subject. All of us have different views that I’m certain we will defend to the end. 798 is not about the art you enjoy (though you might just find that one great piece) or those “cocktail party whisper” pieces that you just have to see; it’s a place where the young artists of northern china can display their work, discuss their thoughts, and relax in the company of other artists. Note that while this may be commonplace in Europe or the United States, we are talking about China and the city from which “beats the heart of the Chinese people.” Up until the mid eighties, the Chinese were very much still in the Cultural Revolution. The society of artists and art aficionados really only started to develop in the nineties.

For visitors to 798, the “rough around the edges” feeling is prevalent, despite the well furnished/funded galleries, coffee houses, and forced graffiti. This was an old factory of some kind, which explains the wide buildings, perfectly angled streets, pipes, stacks, and valves that give this area its charm. There are rusted generators painted in bright colors that compliment the graffiti strewn across long, red brick walls. Randomly themed sculptures can be found at every corner and the galleries, are first rate—designed to the standards of New York and Milan. The development of this area is still in progress—there are no good restaurants, and a lot of space between galleries. The signs and maps are improving, but as a whole I suggest just mowing up and down the area, like you would a grocery store, to get the best experience. Smaller side streets often have small workshops. The people are quite friendly, so do not be shy when poking your nose into little courtyards or shacks. It can be cold in the winter, so I suggest that people traveling during this period dress warmly (Excessively would be best) and the artists do not usually get up till around 1030am, so plan for a mid day visit- which gets you out before the rush hour traffic at 5pm.

798 is a place any art lover NEEDS to visit. Fortunately it will only improve as time passes, so regular visits are recommended. If you absolutely need to buy a piece, I suggest you do your research first. There are a lot of overpriced artists and imitators in this area. Look first then go home and get on the internet. All prices are heavily negotiable.

XIAO WANG FU IS THE PLACE FOR YU

Tucked in a small side street behind the China World Center this restaurant boasts, “Chinese home cooking,” which is no small proclamation in a country that practically invented “home cooking.” The quickest way to find the restaurant is to get on Guanghua Lu and stand at the corner opposite of the Kerry Center but facing the China World Center (Get this part right!). You will see a street leading from Guanghua Lu to the China World Center, find the street parallel and immediately to the right. Please be warned that while Xiao Wang Fu’s sign can’t be missed, there is a second, equally garish sign that invites you to eat at an excellent Hot Pot. Sadly this restaurant must be connected to a different set of water pipes or just have bad food Feng Shui, because its downright terrible.

Entering the deceptively large restaurant, you will see the small shed they use to roast the ducks (they look tastier hanging then on your plate) and a little water fountain. Tables are always full, but the wait will not be longer than 5-10 minutes.

It is the food and not the ambiance where this restaurant excels. I’ve eaten here numerous times over my many trips to Beijing and I do not think I have EVER ordered anything bad. In fact, I would go as far as saying that everything I have ordered was good to borderline addictive. The dishes are a mix from different regions of China, though the majority are northern dishes. You can get the staple Peking duck and bitter melon to terrific Mapu tofu and minced lamb. Undoubtedly they use MSG in their cooking, but it’s worth it. Now the highlight of any of my Xiao Wang Fu dinners is the Sichuan Spicy Chicken (Xiang La Ji Li). The boneless pieces come in a basket full of Chili’s, steaming hot, and fried till golden brown. They are a lot less spicy than they look, but have a distinct coriander flavor. It’s always a battle with the other dinner guests to pick away at the small pieces of chicken hiding within the peppers—you literally use your chopsticks to sweep the chili’s aside. Pair this dish with a cold Yanjing Draft and you are in for a real culinary delight.

The restaurant has grown in the last few years. Since my first meal I have seen a toilet system installed, a third floor with an adjoining balcony, a menu with pictures, and my favorites—more tables, more employees (that are always friendly), and less space between guests. They have even started a delivery service to buildings around the CBD area. It’s nice to see a hardworking restaurant find the success they deserve.

CENTRO BAR BEIJING

Sitting in Centro, an upscale Jazz Bar at the Kerry Center in Beijing, one quickly realizes that in a city with 20 million inhabitants and a quite a lot of good bars and clubs, there really is no other place that can best the ambiance and Jazz offered by this old Beijing stalwart. Dimly lit and tastefully appointed, the Jazz band and singers (often imported from the US) belt out Sinatra, Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, Dean Martin, Nat King Cole—the true classics in a world infatuated with Norah Jones, Kenny G, and Diana Krall. This is not to say that the latter three are not of noteworthy mention, it is just that the impact and emotions that are brought forth by the Jazz artists of the 50’s to 60’s seem to carry a much deeper tone. Pair this with a good cigar and Mojito (the best in Asia!) and you have yourself a perfectly rounded and soulful evening. This was in fact, what I was enjoying before the dulled cigar cutter chewed up my beautiful, aged and nicely prepared Montecristo. Staring in disbelief at the mangled end of the cigar, I did not know whether to cry or berate the waitress. Being older and more mature, I opted to steam quietly in my seat, puffing awkwardly in the yellow candle glow. For those looking for a good smoke, the Montecristo Edmundo is a spectacular cigar! It’s a medium to full-bodied blend of tobacco, with a rich draw and a nice feel to the fingers (it’s a big cigar, 52 ring gauge at 135mm). There is a lot of flavor, even from one of the newer years—with plenty of potential to improve as the years go by. I did find that it required a bit more attention than some other cigars and burned quite unevenly. This may have had something to do with the tattered end. An interesting side note, this cigar was named after Alexander Dumas’ “Count of Montecristo” protagonist, Edmund Dantes. Mixed with good bourbon and a bit of Louis, you really cannot beat the experience!

If you are out in Beijing, enjoy jazz and would like a place to kick back with the locals, I highly recommend Centro. Just make sure to bring your own cigar accessories.

THE LEGEND OF GAO BULI BAOZI

A boy was born to a forty year old farmer in the Tianjin countryside. He named his baby “Gouzi” (Baby dog) for the sake of protecting his young infants life (I suppose babies are not given to forty year old men?). Gouzi went to Tianjin to study when he was 14, apprenticing in a steamed food shop. As a young boy he was hard working and showed much talent—though didn’t much like working for others. He ventured on his own and ran a stall of “Bouzi” (Steamed stuffed bun). He concocted a half-leaven, water filled dough that was soft and fragrant, looking much like a white chrysanthemum. People came from many places to eat his special Baozi. So much so that people in his neighborhood would say, “Gouzi isn’t talking when he is selling his Bouzi!” Before long, people started to call him “Gou Buli” (By “buli” meaning—he who does not pay attention to people), hence the nickname. Through the years Gou Buli Bouzi has attracted a number of famous patrons, from the Empress Dowager Cixi, to Mao, to your very own Jolly Jetsetter.

So the legend goes, for the most famous dumplings in Northern China. Now as an adventurer, I usually prefer to chase mountain peaks, rich cigars, the finest malts… even skirt, but this dumpling, this juicy, succulent, herb filled dumpling, was worth the frigid cold and shit filled alleyways. My date in tow, we ascended the very same stairs that Mao and George Bush Senior, to sit and enjoy our five different dumpling varieties: shrimp, Pork, Beef, Lamb, and Vegetables (bleh). They were a ludicrously expensive $1.5 each (55 pesos per dumpling) but well worth the expense. Paired with an oily plate of string beans and a cold Tsingdao beer, the dumpling experience is one that I would recommend to any traveler through Tianjin. Just watch how you bite into them, as they have a nasty habit of bursting, sending the soupy liquid dribbling down your chin and onto your clean, pressed collar. Fortunately there are napkins that you can buy for an additional $0.4.

When it comes to an adventure, one is never quite sure if it was the end that made the trip worthwhile or the chase. For these rare dumplings I would say that the cold, dirt, distance, and difficulty were very much a part of the herbs and spices used to make such a memorable dish.